15 June
Well, after my last update, I couldn’t delay going to the bar any longer – so I went. And drank cerveja. Wind started picking up, until the point where the plastic chairs, rubbish bins and tables started flying. I suddenly remembered the guy on beach warning me of a storm due tomorrow. And that he actually used the word ‘typhoon’. Guys at the bar whooping and cheering when things start flying. Then, when a girl walks past trying to hold her skirt down. Then – the power goes out. More whooping. Wild weather brings out the feral. Power stayed off, in entire town. So – bar closes up, and I walk back to apartment. Much more people on the street now, in freezing cold wind, than I have ever seen during day. Drank a beer by ‘candlelight’ (torch really), and listened to very very strong & loud wind. Power came on after a while – announced by more whooping from the streets.
16 June
Packed my bags, and went to bar for a goodbye cerveja. Catch bus to a town/suburb in the middle of the island, then get on another I hope is heading for the central city. It does, but not to where the Lonely Planet says it will. Luckily, the long-distance bus station isn’t where the Lonely Planet says it is either, and is only 100m from where I am standing trying to figure out where I am.
Only bus to Montevideo is at 10am. It is 2pm. Dumb. Porto Alegro is on the way, so look for tickets to there. One at 10pm, or one at 2pm. Guy talks me into the 2pm one, despite it being bang on 2pm now. Expensive, but comfortable bus. Not comfortable enough for the kid sitting opposite me though. Cried constantly. Loudly.
At Porto Alegro, I find a bus leaving from there to Montevideo the same night – so book that, drink a couple of cervejas, give my passport to some guy working on the bus, and head off. Again, expensive, but comfy – with food, drinks, pillow & blanket provided. And when I wake up – my passport is given to me, all stamped and border crossing finished.
17 June
Montevideo is very cold. 2ºC according to a streetside display. Good weather for a nice bracing walk. So – I walk from bus station. Found a cemetery. Very cool cemetery. These guys know how to be buried. Although I was confused by the tombs with lifesize statues of jeebers or his mummy on them. Surely, if you’re going to pay for a lifesize statue on your tomb – you’d get yourself? Then, I discovered that some chaps did in fact agree with me. I am going to start saving for a lifesize statue of myself for my grave. Also – discovered a grave that must have belonged to somebody pretty important, or with some powerful friends. Huge block of stone, in plot facing ocean. Also saw a creepy grave. Statue of some creepy looking guy/monster, with eyes that followed me. And the eye-in-a-pyramid symbol. Not a grave I’d get drunk and fool around with my cheerleader girlfriend on while sinister music plays in the background.
Old lady in cemetery warned me to watch out for thieves. Then, when I left cemetery, and kept walking, realised I was in rather dodgy part of town. So – I stayed the course. Eventually reached Independence Square. Big big statue of a general who helped Uruguay gain independence. On his horse. Big. Underneath it – is an urn with his ashes. From the size of the urn – the statue may be lifesize. Room with the urn big barren square. Big text on the walls with the dates of his life, and two armed guards.
Finally found an hotel, after asking around a few. Food (suddenly remember that my spanish phrasebook is awful. Spain spanish, not south america spanish), a short walk around, then a mission to find a cheap bar. Mission accomplished, but almost feel guilty walking into this place. The only patrons are very old men. Most of whom look broken. Bar owner flaunting the ‘no-smoking in public places/establshments’ law. But I stay, let somebody know as soon as possible that I’m not a seppo, but from Nova Zelandia. Make friends – all good. Meet a guy who speaks passable english – who takes me to another bar. Talk rugby for a while, and he ends up paying for my drinks at new bar, and insisting that he ‘walk me home’. (Strictly security-wise, okay?)
18 June
And today, I spent eating a huge steak at the meat market, and then shopping. Bought myself a thermos, and the rest of the equipment to drink some mate. Not sure where I’m gonna get boiling water from, but it’ll sort itself out. Also – after my shoelace breaking for the 10th or so time, got some new shoes. Should have enough time to ruin these ones just in time so that I have to buy brand new shoes for the Inca Trail, and get some beautiful blisters. Yeah, sweet. And now – a couple of hours on internet, uploading photos. More scenery and what-not. Then, I’ve got a date with the chap I met last night. The guy who bought me drinks. And walked me home. Hmmm… it is sounding quite bad now. But anyway, hopefully he’ll have some info on whether any cable channels here will have the rugby on the weekend. Finally, the south african timezone is actually good.