Well – made it down the mighty Amazon river. First night – was a young fellows birthday, so I brought out the bottle of whiskey I’d bought as emergency supplies. Fairly good night. Slept in my hammock – very tight quarters. But better than some of the areas – where there were literally people touching on all sides – including top/bottom. I was to discover what this was like for the final two nights.
In general – the scenery was fairly monotonous. Some riverside houses/huts on the final couple of days were interesting, along with the people in canoes who would try to attach to our moving ship, in order to sell stuff. Or, in some cases, for the fun of it? Practice, maybe? I discovered the lunch/dinner schedule/system on the second day. Food wasn’t too bad at all. Although I didn’t “carefully scrutinise” it like the guide book advised. Toilets weren’t as bad as could be expected. Certainly not pristine – but not bad. Probably due to them doubling as showers. I got to know most of the people on board. Certainly the ones who went up to the top deck where the bar was. No tonic water at the bar, so my 2nd emergency bottle, of gin, was drunk with delicious guarana soft drink.
On the 3rd day, an extended family boarded, and started setting up around my hammock spot. Several people moved, as they were a little smelly. And then the nice ship doctor lady moved me. To what looked like a good spot. Right next to the ladder down to the bottom deck, hardly ever used. So – it seemed like I’d have one side with nobody next to me. A couple of hours later – I saw that this was a deluded hope. I had people very very close to me on all sides, including above.
I lent my MP3 player to folks at night time. My newfound friend who borrowed it for the final night, avoided me all day, and then told me that he didn’t know where it was. Lost it overnight, apparently. Offered to pay me for it, but then again tried to avoid me. I couldn’t be bothered with the little shit, so took off.
07 May
Arrived in Belem – got the business card from a nice man at the port for a hostel. Was offered a ride to the hostel. Turned it down, walked around for some time in stinking heat – and ended up going to the hostel. Went to the plaza – some live music, many stalls and people. Watched some capoeira (the martial art that was designed by slaves here to look like dancing, to disguise the training). Sat at a bar in the park watching people. Talked to a young guy who wanted me to go to a heavy metal concert. Instead, I went for a siesta.
08 May
Went for a walk. Saw the Market – landmark of Belem. Long, heavy rainfall while I was there, so sat at a bar for quite some time. Kids letting off very very loud fireworks. Band playing drums/saxamaphone. Watched the news on TV – gathered that the local futbol club had just won some kind of trophy or championship. Seemed to have created a lot of fuss, including – I assume – the fireworks and live music.
Rain mostly stopped. Went to look at the fort. Closed, and no real vantage point to get a good photo from outside of it. Dumb. Drank at another bar. Some guys talk to me, tell me it’s a dodgy part of town. Shouldn’t let people see my camera. Ask for $R2 to go buy some liquor. I only have a 50 note. But – give it to them. Stupid, stupid Kruse. They never come back. One that may have been associated with them does – nearly gets lynched by another group of guys. Me – no cash. And have just ordered a beer. Group of english speakers comes past (CocaCola employees?) – give me a fiver to pay for beer. Sweet. $5 actually buys me two. After two – go to ATM, get cash, back to bar. Possibly silly, but determined not to let the thieves ruin my day. And to stop them from being able to go back to their favourite bar. Get taxi home though – don’t want to push my luck too far. Dinner at street stalls. Watch political demonstration. All good.